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Lisbon is made of light, the river, hills and stories. And many of these stories live behind old shop counters, among glass jars, centuries-old display cabinets and wood polished by time. On this tour we follow the living traces of a city that reinvents itself without forgetting who it is. Shops with History resist time, haste, and fads, and preserve memories and traditions that are part of Lisbon's identity.
They are hat shops, bookshops, glove shops, pastry shops, restaurants, hardware stores, grocery stores, jewellers, tobacconists and canneries, where ancient crafts continue to be practised with mastery and knowledge is passed down from generation to generation like a well-kept secret. Unique spaces, where the past is offered up in every good morning, each gesture and every detail.
Each shop, with its unique personality, tells us a little about the soul of Lisbon. From leisure facilities to everyday services, from iconic restaurants to almost secret spots, this is a trip around a city that pulsates with tradition. Let's follow this emotional map where each point is a story - and each story, a place where the customer is still king.
Lisbon has always been a city of commerce. Since medieval times, fairs and markets were the main centres of trade, where spices, fabrics, ceramics and other precious goods from distant lands were traded. With the arrival of the Age of Discovery in the 15th century, Lisbon became one of the largest trading ports in the world, attracting European, African and Asian merchants. Spices from India, sugar from the colonies and gold from Brazil contributed greatly to a vibrant economy that shaped the city.
It was during the 18th century, after the 1755 earthquake, that Lisbon underwent a significant urban reconstruction. Streets were organised by trades, creating specific areas for different types of commerce. For example, Rua dos Fanqueiros was dedicated to fabric sellers, while Rua do Ouro was home to jewellers and goldsmiths. This model influenced the emergence of specialised shops, many of which still stand today as living testimonies to that period.
Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, traditional shops became part of everyday life for the people of Lisbon. More than just commercial establishments, they served as social and cultural meeting places. Many of them still use production methods that date back to their origins. Luvaria Ulysses, founded in 1925, is a perfect example of this spirit. Located in Rua do Carmo, the shop has only enough space for one customer at a time, but offers custom-made gloves with techniques that have been passed down through the generations. Chapelaria Azevedo Rua, open since 1886, continues to supply elegant hats that have marked eras, as a symbol of style and tradition. Another icon is the Caza das Vellas Loreto, founded in 1789, which produces handmade candles used in religious ceremonies and historical events. These handmade candles not only illuminate physical spaces, but also the collective memory of Lisbon.
Standing out among the curiosities and fascinating stories of historic shops is the Hospital das Bonecas (Doll Hospital), founded in 1830. This small establishment in downtown Lisbon specialises in repairing antique dolls and toys. Each restored item tells stories of childhood and affection, making it a true "hospital" of memories.
Livraria Bertrand, recognised by the Guinness World Records as the oldest bookshop in the world still in operation, opened its doors in 1732. Frequented by writers such as Eça de Queirós, Alexandre Herculano and other intellectuals, it is still a haven for literature lovers.
Conserveira de Lisboa, inaugurated in 1930, transformed canned fish into genuine works of art. Their products, packed in vintage boxes, are highly sought after by both locals and tourists.
A Brasileira, which opened in 1905, was a meeting place for intellectuals and artists, including Fernando Pessoa. Today, its terrace in the Chiado is one of the most photographed places in Lisbon.
In a world dominated by globalisation and large retail chains, Lisbon's historic shops stand as bastions of authenticity. They represent a link between the past and present, preserving traditions that are part of the city's cultural identity. Entering one of these shops is like travelling back in time, discovering stories hidden behind wooden counters and centuries-old display cabinets.
Canned sardines
Sardines are a symbol of Portuguese culture and especially of Lisbon, where they are celebrated in June during the Festas de Santo António, the city's popular patron saint. Conserveira de Lisboa, founded in 1930, has elevated canned fish to an art form, with packaging that has become iconic. Besides sardines, the shop offers mackerel, tuna, roe of various species, and other fish, all prepared with traditional methods.
Where: Conserveira de Lisboa
Dried cod
Cod is known as the "faithful friend" and is present in countless traditional dishes. In Lisbon, it is essential for recipes such as bacalhau à Brás, à la Gomes de Sá (northern codfish recipe) or codfish patties. Manteigaria Silva is famous for offering high-quality cod, often hung on display, creating a unique atmosphere around this product.
Where: Manteigaria Silva
Wine from Carcavelos
This fortified wine with centuries of tradition, produced in the Lisbon region, specifically in Carcavelos, is a true nectar of Portuguese oenology. With notes of dried fruit, caramel and spices, it is ideal as an aperitif, for accompanying cheese or more elaborate desserts.
Where: Garrafeira Nacional
Wine from Colares
Produced in the stunning region of Sintra, wines from Colares stand out due to their uniqueness, thanks to the vineyards planted in sandy soils near the Atlantic. With delicate aromas and a unique mineral character, they are perfect for accompanying fish or seafood dishes.
Where: Garrafeira Nacional
Azeitão Cheese
This cheese, produced in the Azeitão region, stands out for its creamy texture and intense flavour. It is ideal to be enjoyed on its own or accompanied by a good wine and traditional bread.
Where: Manteigaria Silva
Moscatel from Setúbal
This sweet wine, produced in the Lisbon region, specifically in Setúbal, is very popular as an aperitif or digestif. With notes of honey and citrus, it is perfect to accompany desserts or simply to enjoy in a historic café such as Martinho da Arcada.
Where: Garrafeira Nacional
Ginja liqueur (or Ginjinha)
This cherry liqueur, made from a type of cherry, is one of Lisbon's classics. Served in small glasses, with or without the fruit, it is a ritual for anyone visiting the city. A Ginjinha, in Largo de São Domingos, is the most famous place to try this drink.
Where: A Ginjinha
Bolo-Rei
Introduced in Portugal in the 19th century, Bolo-Rei is a Christmas classic – a cake in the shape of a crown, with light and tasty dough, filled with dried and candied fruits. Confeitaria Nacional, founded in 1829, was one of the first to produce this cake in Lisbon, following a French recipe adapted to Portuguese tastes.
Where: Confeitaria National
Pastel de Belém
The Pastel de Belém (custard tart) is a puff pastry dessert filled with egg, milk and sugar cream. It is one of Lisbon's most famous specialities and a true icon of the city. They originated from the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, where monks began making this dessert to avoid wasting egg yolks.
Where: Pastelaria Benard
Candied Almonds
These sugar-coated almonds are a traditional sweet, especially popular at Easter.
Where: Casa Macário
Leather gloves
In Luvaria Ulisses, a small shop in Rua do Carmo that is so narrow that only one customer can enter at a time, gloves are made to measure, preserving handicraft techniques that go back to the start of the 20th century.
Where: Luvaria Ulisses
Hats
In Lisbon, hats paraded through the town squares and avenues, becoming part of the urban landscape and etiquette that defined the city's customs. Models as the fedora or beret were indispensable, each reflecting the style and personality of their wearer.
Where: Chapelaria Azevedo Rua
Handmade shoes
The Carmo shoe shop in the Chiado has sold handmade shoes, known for their durability and timeless style, since 1904. Many Lisbon residents still prefer handmade shoes, made one at a time, to industrialised options.
Where: Sapataria do Carmo
Gold and silver jewellery
In the city's historic jewellery shops you can find unique pieces, often inspired by traditional Portuguese designs, such as maritime motifs.
Where: Joalharia Ferreira Marques e Leitão e Irmão
Books by Portuguese authors
Books by Portuguese authors are a reflection of the soul and history of the country, immortalising its culture in words. Works such as those by Fernando Pessoa, whose connection with Lisbon is as deep as it is poetic, and José Saramago, who explored the roots and contradictions of Portuguese identity (his ashes are in front of the Casa dos Bicos in Campo das Cebolas, where the Foundation of the same name operates) – continue to inspire generations of readers. In Livraria Bertrand, in the Chiado area, recognised as the oldest in the world still in operation, these stories find a home in a space that celebrates the city's literary tradition and cultural richness.
Where: Livraria Bertrand
Handmade candles
Founded in 1789, Caza das Vellas Loreto produces candles used in religious ceremonies and historical events, and currently offers a wide variety of aromas to perfume homes and other environments. Each candle is handmade, keeping a centuries-old tradition alive.
Where: Caza das Vellas Loreto
Handcrafted knives
Cutelaria Polycarpo’s knives are known for their precision and durability. Many of them feature engraved designs that reflect Portuguese landscapes or cultural symbols.
Where: Cutelaria Polycarpo
Decorative hardware
At Ferragens Guedes, a centuries-old shop, you can find door handles and locks that reflect the architectural style of Lisbon, especially the Pombaline buildings.
Where: Ferragens Guedes
Medicinal herbs and natural teas
In Ervanária Rosil, natural remedies for ailments of the body and mind have been available for decades. Since 1950, the tradition of blending individual plants or special compositions has been kept alive, with teas that promise almost miraculous effects. The famous "tea no. 6", known as the "miracle tea", is one of the most sought after.
Where: Ervanária Rosil
Blue and white soap
This soap is a classic, used for both household cleaning and personal care. Its simple and effective formula has been passed down for generations and remains a must-have in Lisbon households.
Where: Drogaria Oriental
Cigars and pipes
For decades cigars and pipes were symbols of style and sophistication, associated with moments of relaxation and socialising. In Lisbon, these products became part of urban culture, accompanying conversations in cafés, formal meetings and even celebratory rituals. Tabacaria Mónaco, in Rossio, is an iconic venue that preserves this tradition, offering carefully selected cigars and elegant pipes in an environment steeped in history and art.
Where: Tabacaria Mónaco
Barbershop items
Barbershop items, such as razors and shaving brushes, have always been symbols of personal care and masculine elegance. In Lisbon, places like Barbearia Oliveira keep this tradition alive, offering not only products but also a service that evoke memories of a time when the ritual of shaving was a gesture of style and identity.
Where: Barbearia Oliveira
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